The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées unfurls in the glass with notes of freshly baked bread, crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and open-knit, with a tender, charming profile and a vibrant finish. This hails from the steepest sloping site in Colin's domaine.

The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaumées has a slightly dusty bouquet at first, quite earthy, a little withdrawn compared to the other cuvées. The palate is more fresh and vivacious with a fine bead of acidity, notes of white peach and candied orange peel with just a touch of orange zest that enlivens the short but focused finish. Fine.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumées has a generous, lightly honeyed bouquet, perhaps at the expense of the mineralité shown by the Saint Aubins at the moment. The palate is again, quite rounded on the entry, good weight in the mouth although it is missing the tension and energy that the 2014 demonstrated last year. It is well made, clean and pure, reflective of the vintage and should drink well for 5-8 years. I expect it to ultimately land at the upper end of my banded score.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaumées from Philippe Colin has a slightly more backward bouquet compared to its peers, with an algae-like scent tincturing the citrus fruit. The palate is better than the aromatics. Nicely focused with a fine bead of acidity, the oak neatly integrated with just a patina of Japanese yuzu and ginger on the finish. It actually improved in the glass, so maybe afford this another year in bottle.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées has a light, floral bouquet that does not quite deliver the complexity of its peers, too minimalist for a Chassagne. The palate is well balanced with a pretty white peach and lemongrass-tinged entry, the acidity sharper than its peers if not quite ordained with the same level of persistence on the finish. But I feel that this could turn into a fine Chassagne-Montrachet with 2-3 years in bottle. Tasted May 2016.