The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is immensely promising, unfurling in the glass with an appropriately reserved nose of lemon oil, candle wax, white currants, toasted bread and dried spring flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered with a satiny attack, excellent concentration at the core and a long, expansive finish. This must number among the best kept secrets in grand cru white Burgundy, and I encourage readers to seek it out.

The 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comprises of three barrels instead of the usual five, although there is an additional barrel that comes from Philippe's parents from this vintage onward. It has a well-defined and quite fragrant bouquet with scents of citrus fruit, orange blossom, wet granite and a touch of sea spray. I would have liked just a little more vigor at this stage. The palate is very well balanced with neatly integrated oak from the two new barrels, good weight in the mouth with a spicy vein that emerges toward the tensile finish. Despite the depleted quantity and the traumatic growing season, this is a very well-crafted Chevalier-Montrachet.

Tasted blind, this was an extraordinary showing for Philippe Colin's 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a stunning wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, ripe citrus and spring flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, pure and racy, with an elegantly satiny attack, superb concentration and brilliant cut and underlying structural tension. Tangy but textural, this is a superb Chevalier-Montrachet that went head to head with the vintage's best.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru from Philippe Colin has a wonderful bouquet with chalk dust-infused citrus fruit, gunflint and just a hint of pear drop. However, underneath this all lies wonderful mineralité. The palate is well balanced with vibrant acidity, saline and with an intense, structured finish that lingers in the mouth. You can feel the presence of this grand cru: a class act that is going to give some lucky owners a lot of drinking pleasure. Intellectual and thrilling.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru was a big and very pleasant surprise. It has a very intense and quite beautiful bouquet, wonderful definition -- dandelion, dried pineapple and subtle brioche notes that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, tensile and shimmering with nervosité, composed and refined on the finish. This punches well above its showing in barrel and constitutes a really top class Grand Cru. Tasted May 2016. Wonderful.