The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain has a little more fruit intensity on the nose compared to the Chenevottes '13: very well defined with flint scents merging with apple blossom and struck match. The palate is smooth and nicely rounded on the entry: spice-infused apricot with white peach and a touch of lemongrass enlivening the finish. This is very fine - a classy number.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain is recalcitrant and broody on the nose, refusing to give much away at this premature juncture. There is a touch of spiciness on the entry: candied orange peel and shaved ginger, before building toward a sweet but well-defined finish. Fine. Readers should check out my video taken with Pierre-Yves onwww.erobertparker.com, where he discusses his impression of the 2012 vintage. He is the prime example of a vigneron that might not possess his own vines, yet creates wines that surpass many of those who do. The bottom line is that volume was approximately 40% to 50% down compared to 2011 (apart from St. Aubin that was only 20% to 25% down.) Pierre-Yves explained that his 2012s displayed much higher acid levels compared to 2011 and opined that they will be shy at the beginning. He expressed the importance of not wishing to “push” the wines, so that he could stay true to what he feels is a more classic vintage in the mold of 2007 and 2010. Tasting through the complete set of 2012s, Pierre-Yves clearly had a firm grasp on the vintage and his wines were (again) a cut above the rest, from his generic white Burgundy to his clutch of grand crus. Importer: A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054