The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret opens in the glass with pretty notions of crisp orchard fruit, Meyer lemon, blanched almonds and citrus blossom, framed by a very subtle touch of classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a textural attack and striking volume, revealing excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, precise finish. This is an excellent Cailleret that combines power and tension.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Girardin's 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru le Cailleret has a relatively simple bouquet with lemon rind, green apple and cold stone notes, although it needs to demonstrate more intensity. After 15 minutes, there is a light tinned-peach scent. The palate is well balanced with a touch of peach on the entry, lime and tinned apricot here. It feels a little obvious, and although it is nicely balanced, I would have liked to see more mineralité on the finish—the same sentiment accorded to the Cailleret from Paul Pillot that was included within the same flight.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru le Cailleret has a clean and precise bouquet, fine mineralité if not the complexity of some of the best Chassagne-Montrachets. The palate is fresh on the entry with green apple and pear, a dash of spice, but it feels a little austere on the finish and with aeration, it comes across as a little one-dimensional. Tasted May 2016.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Caillerets from Vincent Girardin has a generous, fruit-driven nose that is less mineral-driven, but nevertheless is well defined with touches of yellow flower and lemon curd developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and shows more class than the aromatics: fine acidity here, citrus fresh with orange sorbet and lemon zest defining the long and sustained finish. Once the nose develops more sophistication this will be a very "able" Chassagne-Montrachet.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de Caillerets 2011 has a similar bouquet to Vincent Morey’s with plenty of generous orange blossom and apricot scents, but there is less minerality than Paul Pillot’s own Caillerets. The palate is quite rounded in the mouth with lower acidity, plush and generous with honey, pear drop and orange zest lining the finish. It feels a little “worked” compared to its peers, but it is undeniably well balanced and should age well.