The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is beautiful, mingling aromas of pear and orange zest with notions of freshly baked bread, white flowers and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's concentrated and serious, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, penetrating finish. This will reward a bit of bottle age.

A notable success this year is the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, mandarin orange, white flowers, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and taut, with a concentrated core of fruit, that's girdled by bright acids and chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, it's a tiny cuvée that's worth a special effort to seek out.

Bright and vibrant, the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets delivers aromas of crisp green apple, orange oil, white flowers and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's mineral and electric, with a deep core of fruit and a long, saline finish.

Purchased as must from a biodynamic producer, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets bursts with aromas of yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, spices and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a satiny attack and an ample mid-palate, it's racy and tensile despite its volume, concluding with a saline finish.