The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées reveals aromas of crisp green pear, toasted nuts, spices and honey, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's tangy, precise and penetrating. This is a classy, deftly balanced Chaumées that should offer a broad drinking window.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Girardin's 2014 Chassagne Montrachet les Chaumées 1er Cru has a clean, precise, minerally bouquet with pleasant chalk dust aromas filtering through the citrus fruit. I admire the definition and focus of this 2014. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, demonstrating judicious use of oak that allows the terroir to shine through on the finish. There is something "commercial" about this Chassagne-Montrachet but you would still finish a bottle.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées has a much more exotic bouquet than others, offering ripe mango and melon aromas on the nose, even a touch of lavender that emerges with time. The palate is rounded on the entry, not as detailed as I would have hoped, primal and missing a little flair and sophistication on the finish, especially considering that this is a premier cru. Tasted May 2016.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chassagne Montrachet les Chaumées 1er Cru has a slightly disjointed bouquet with stronger pear and gooseberry scents coming through, though nicely defined. The palate is crisp and fresh with well judged acidity, freshly squeezed lime and green apple dovetailing into a detailed finish with commendable tension and length. This is an impressive showing.

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees is striking. Peaches, apricots and white flowers are given an extra dimension of coolness from the heavy presence of limestone in these soils. This is a terrific example of the vintage. I especially like the vibrancy of the aromas and flavors in the Chaumees. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802