A remarkable pungency and brightness of rhubarb preserves, pink grapefruit marmalade, and glazed pineapple laced with lime and sage oil scent the Weinbach 2007 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Selection de Grains Nobles and generate an electrically charged, sweet and tart palate impression, with 128 grams of residual sugar cut down to mere sweetness by atypically high acids and implosive extract. Seldom will one encounter a Gewurztraminer with remotely this sort of vivacity, and tasted blind I would more likely have guessed this to be a Muscat or Scheurebe. The finish is amazingly penetrating, if a bit raw. This needs years just to settle down, and will probably be worth following for 30-40 years. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage – especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand – and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Weinbach 2006 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Selection de Grains Nobles is an example of the kinky exhibitionism that this vintage's botrytis can display. Musk, fading lily, sage flower, fish oil, fungus, quince preserves, strawberry jam, and litchi all rise from the glass and linger on a viscous, glycerin-rich, creamy palate, loaded with sweetness to the point of near excess, yet somehow restrained by sheer extract and a modicum of citricity. This is something of a jumble for now, yet amazingly concentrated and almost luridly fascinating. I can't predict what will come of it, although I imagine its evolution will be measurable in decades. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage - especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand - and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802