Smoke-laced mirabelles (yellow plums) are found in the aromatics of the silky-textured, ample 2001 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Vendanges Tardives. Medium-bodied, youthfully primary, and sporting outstanding richness, it is a plush, pure wine. Projected maturity: 2005-2014. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Mott's apple sauce, spices, and pears can be found in the un-Gewurz like nose of the 2000 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Vendanges Tardives (98 grams of residual sugar per liter). Hugely thick, full-bodied, unctuous, and syrupy, it is redolent with peaches, candied citrus fruits, and poached pears. Drink this fat, spicy effort over the next 12 years. According to Laurence Faller, this highly regarded estate's winemaker, "unquestionably 2000 must be considered one of the finest vintages of the last decade. It reminds me of 1998 but with more botrytis, yet not too much."Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802