Blockier and even more textural than this year's Bienvenues, the 2019 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with notes of oranges, peaches, ripe pears, white flowers, wheat toast and smoke. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, it's thick and muscular, with considerable concentration, lively acids despite its size, and a long, resonant finish.

The 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru hails from a small parcel just below the Marquis de Laguiche's Montrachet holdings, and it's also performing beautifully. Offering up a lovely bouquet of pear, orange oil, white flowers and clear honey that's framed by a deft touch of oak, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with a deep and layered core, lively acids and a long, expansive finish.

The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly, mingling notes of peach, pear and honeycomb with nuances of beeswax, warm bread and orange oil. Full-bodied, multidimensional and textural, it's a powerful, muscular wine that's concentrated and satiny without being unctuous, balanced by racy acids. Long and penetrating, this is worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2016 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru was not too affected by frost according to Beno?t, as the vines were partly protected by the wall that runs along the top of the vineyard toward Montrachet. It has a well-defined bouquet with expressive scents of green apple, fresh pear and a slight touch of mint, conveying a sense of coiled-up energy and frisson. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, just a little honeyed in texture with quite an intense, spicy finish that leaves you with a positive impression. You know what...this might well turn out to be the best wine from Sauzet this year. Bravo.