The 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out nicely, opening in the glass with notes of buttered orchard fruit, honeycomb, wheat toast and marzipan. Full-bodied, rich and textural, it's fleshy and layered, with bright acids, good depth at the core and a long, delicately toasty finish. Bottled under Diam, it will offer a broad drinking window.

The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with a youthfully reserved but nicely integrated bouquet of citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, ripe peaches, toasted nuts and smoke. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a deep core, succulent acids and a layered, muscular profile, concluding with a long and expansive finish. While it needs a couple of years in the cellar, I suspect this will offer a broad drinking window. Though it's bigger than some of Leflaive's 2017 premiers crus, I don't think it dominates them in terms of quality.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very elegant and delineated bouquet with beautifully integrated oak that marries with the bright citrus fruit, green apple and gunflint aromas. The palate is very well balanced on the entry, with a little fatness at first thanks to the oak; though it is conspicuous at the moment, it enhances this wine, and there is great precision on the finish. It clearly needs several years in bottle. This is an outstanding wine from Olivier Leflaive.