Sweet perfumed fruit, smoke and graphite waft from the glass as the 2010 Batard-Montrachet shows off its elegant personality. The Batard is one of the more refined wines in the Olivier Leflaive lineup. It comes across as understated and pretty, but with plenty of power in reserve. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Olivier Leflaive's domaine lineup will be getting a big boost in the next few years with the addition of parcels in Sous le Dos d-Ane, Pucelles, Folatieres, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Batard-Montrachet that previously were part of the Domaine Leflaive holdings. In addition, Olivier Leflaive continues with a negociant operation, whose wines are reviewed separately to avoid confusion. Overall, I find the Domaine Olivier Leflaive bottlings more interesting than the Maison wines. All of these 2010s are fairly open and accessible. The best wines may hold for some time, but I don't think cellaring will result in meaningfully more complexity. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Lightweight and elegant, this apple-, lemon- and herb-flavored white shows vibrant structure. Focused, with a lingering, lemony finish. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases imported. –BS