The black-colored 2002 Merlot Domaine de Bordeneuve Vin de Pays d’Oc reveals deep, candied black cherry and jammy blackberry aromas as well as flavors consumers have come to expect in this perennial over-achiever. Its personality reflects the difficulties associated with its vintage, however, as it is clipped short, revealing a hollow, rustic finish. It should be drunk over the next 18 months. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

Yet again, Duboeuf's Merlot Domaine de Bordeneuve delivers loads of wine for the buck. The 2001 exhibits spicy black fruits in its mouth-watering, sweet, thick aromas. This lush, broad, delicious wine reveals excellent depth of fruit, coating the taster's palate with cherries, blueberries, and spices whose flavors linger in its supple, soft finish. There are few other $7 Merlots that compete. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

I was floored by the super-expressive nose of the dark-colored 2000 Merlot Domaine de Bordeneuve. Hyper-ripe cherries are intermingled with sweet violets and cassis jam in this medium to full-bodied, intense wine. It is concentrated, well-extracted, packed with juicy blackberries and has a long, luscious, seamless finish. It is a hedonist's delight! Readers should run, not walk, to their wine merchant to acquire this wine (knock people down if you have to, it's that good!). Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Bravo! to Georges Duboeuf for this impressive line-up of wines, and for the fact that he has remained true to his goal of delivering high quality at consumer friendly prices. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel (847) 679-0121.

The 1998 Domaine de Bordeneuve is a medium to dark ruby-colored wine with dense blackberry aromas. On the palate, it offers a soft texture, excellent concentration and extract, and beautiful layers of blackberries and red cherries. Consumers who feel they are being squeezed out of the Merlot market by California's exorbitant prices, should run, not walk, to their nearest retailer to purchase this wine. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

The spicy, violet-tinged aromas of French country Merlot are all over this easy-quaffing red that has just enough nuance to bring it to this level. Not deep, rich or complex, but fruity with pleasant floral qualities and full flavors.——M.S.(12/31/1999)—— 85