Giuseppe Quintarelli's namesake 2008 Rosso del Bepi (made well before this legendary figure would pass away in 2012) is made in the so-called average vintages when Amarone is not produced. This wine replaces Amarone in those declassified years, meaning that we see Rosso del Bepi made in 2008 and next again in 2010. The estate's Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, however, is produced in 2009 and 2011. The final decision on which wine will be released is made just a few months before bottling. In very difficult years, neither wine is produced. I have reviewed the 2008 vintage currently on the market now, although the 2010 vintage of this wine was shortly to be released when I visited the estate (but I did not get a chance to taste it). This wine reflects the ideals of a classic blend of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella (with a smaller percentage of other varieties mixed in for good measure), although you do feel some of the extra heat of the vintage, with some lingering sweetness on the close. The wine registers at 15.5% alcohol, and there are ripe nuances of dark fruit, sweet cherry and jammy blackberry. The wine is immediately open, accessible and beautiful, but like all of Quintarelli's releases, it would also benefit from additional aging.

The 2005 Rosso del Bepi is made with the same blend of grapes found in the Valpolicella Superiore. Only in the case of this wine, the entire mass of fruit sees a four-month appassimento cycle. The wine is aged in large oak casks for eight years. A severe hail storm in 2005 reduced yields. The fruit was good in that vintage, but not good enough to become Amarone. All that potential got locked into this wine instead. Despite its age, the Rosso del Bepi offers surprising freshness and crispness with delineated tones of dried cherry and pressed rose. This wine has more decades of cellar aging locked within.

The 2002 Rosso del Bepi flows with tons of elegance in its dark red fruit, cocoa, spices, sage, and crushed flowers. This is a beautifully rich, concentrated red with gorgeous length, finessed tannins and superb overall balance. Rosso del Bepi is the label Quintarelli uses for wines that don’t meet his exacting standards for Amarone. While the 2002 Rosso del Bepi doesn’t quite have the requisite richness to be an Amarone, it is a totally compelling, harmonious wine all the same. It is a superb bottle for the dinner table, where its mineral-infused brightness will pair well with food. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022. Giuseppe Quintarelli remains one of the icons of Italy. The wines are released only when Quintarelli deems them to be ready, not a moment sooner. These two fine bottles will thrill Quintarelli fans, of which I am one. They more than live up to the estate’s vaunted reputation. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999