Hews to the Hanzell style, which is almost old-fashioned in this age of ripely opulent Pinot Noirs. This one’s tight as a drum in tannins and acids, a quivery, nervously wound wine. Yet it’s quite rich and complex, with a tapestry of cherry, red licorice, tobacco, Canadian bacon, dusty Indian spice and buttered toast flavors. Needs 7–8 years in the cellar, and, based on tastings of very old Hanzell, should slowly unfold through the 2020s. ——S.H.(5/1/2011)—— 93