The 2010 Monte Velho Branco is an equal blend of Roupeiro and Antao Vaz, with 30% Perrum. This bottling tends to be a pretty consistent bargain, even in modest vintages, and it is again this year. Quite fruity this year, ripe and clean, with pretty decent depth for its price range, this little charmer is very tasty, not unusual for this well priced bottling. In its youth, it has a certain caressing texture on opening to go with its fruity, but well balanced demeanor. As always here, the catch is that it is not the type of wine that is likely to hold well or develop. It won't stay at peak long. Taking it for what it is, it is a charming and well priced bargain for consumption this summer in particular. However long it holds, drink it young and fresh for best results. Drink now-2012. This iconic Southern Portuguese winery has a lot of new labels this year, which generally look pretty good. The labels for the Reserva and Private Selection, of course, feature art by Portuguese artists - see all the back labels for details. The monovarietal wines now come with just a big letter or two on the front - like "S" for Syrah or "V" for Verdelho. The details are on the label in smaller print.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

The 2007 MONTE VELHO BRANCO is another nice Monte Velho. This is one of the best buys in most years from a winery that routinely produces a slew of best buys. There’s a formula here, perhaps, but the wine succeeds quite well, maintaining a consistent level of quality from year-to-year. Despite its mass market numbers (90,000 cases produced), it is invariably tasty and charming on release, its only flaw being that it needs to be drunk young. It is a blend of Rabo de Ovelha, Arinto, Perrum and Roupeiro, bright and refreshing, with good body for its price range, a crisp finish and tasty fruit. Compared to some of the other good value whites here, it is on the more refined, gentler side, as opposed to sharp and grassy. It may hold a bit better than the 2006 vintage, but drink young for best results. Drink now-2010. Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

An immediately attractive wine, with its richness melding fresh citrus, wood spice and ripe apricot fruits. The wine has a fine green plum skin structure, filled out with delicious sweet acidity.——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 86

The 2006 “MONTE VELHO” BRANCO is a very good value. While it has none of the exuberance and pungent characteristics of the other good value whites listed here (the Verdelho and the Defesa), which you may find to be a good thing or not depending on your taste, it is a wine that is impeccably balanced, refreshing and simply charming. It has a surprisingly nice finish, plus reasonable depth. The flaw is that it will not last long at peak, but it’s lovely and a deal. The younger the better. Drink now-2008. Esporao is one of Alentejo’s iconic producers, with vast vineyards (some 650 hectares) that partly have some age on them (some vines are around thirty years old, considerable relative to the many young wineries in the region). It has some of the region’s most beautiful and atmospheric cellars. Its lineup tends to be value oriented, and the winery excels in producing nice wines for little money, sometimes to the point where you wonder why you should step up. Its winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, is a long time resident in Portugal who has assisted many prominent wineries in the Douro as well.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.