The 2010 "LOIOS" red is an entry level red from Ramos, a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Castelao, vinified in stainless steel. This is a pretty consistent bargain offering from year-to-year, the question being only whether you like its uncomplicated, fruity style and whether you are prepared to accept its context as an early maturing wine that is laid back and friendly, with that grapey, sweet fruit. This is a nice vintage for it, showing good acidity and soft, very ripe tannins, along with that inevitable fruity nuance. Quite elegant this year, it is the type of wine that does what it does best when young and fresh, so however long they hold in theory, drink 'em, don't cellar them. Drink now-2014. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Soft, fruity wine, a perfect foil for grilled meats with its light tannin structure. Ripe and very fruity, generous and juicy.——R.V.(11/1/2011)—— 85

The 2009 “LOIOS” RED is Ramos’ familiar entry level entrant, a blend of Aragones, Trincadeira, Castelao. It is quite nice this year, showing good depth, focus and some power. The fruit remains rather straightforward and sweet, but a little youthful power and the focus gives it a real wine feel. The alcohol (listed at 14%) did seem a bit noticeable at times, but not too intrusive. Given the price point—this is a lot of wine. It will be at its best over the next year or two. Drink now-2013. This lineup is often a good source for values in Portugal. This year’s releases are no different, and perhaps better than most in that regard. There are a lot of beautifully constructed wines here that are charming and inexpensive (ignoring the Reserva “MARQUES DE BORBA,” which has spiked up dramatically in recent years to levels many might find unrealistic). The Vila Santa Reserva Tinto and the Marques de Borba regular Tinto are certainly best buys, but there are good cases to make for the monovarietals and the Loios wines as well.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado).

Soft, attractive wine whose lightness is belied by its 14% alcohol. That makes it balanced, the black cherry flavors well integrated with the easy tannins, light spice and acidity. Drink this year.——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 86

The 2008 LOIOS, one of Ramos’ entry level wines, is often a decent under $10 value. This year’s version is lacking in mid-palate concentration (what do you want for under $10?), but it is nonetheless bright and charming, friendly and fun, while remaining as real wine, not some fruit bomb. The acidity does it some good. There is a bit of a kirsch note that gives this just a little flamboyance. I suspect this will be a party favorite for uncomplicated drinking. Drink now. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).