The 1997 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard (made from clone 108) exhibits a distinctive mineral/gravelly nose reminiscent of a white Graves. Additionally, there is extraordinary richness and honeyed intensity in the mouth, full body, pain grille (toast) intermixed with tropical fruits. The size, alcoholic clout, and fruit quality of this chewy offering clearly point to a blockbuster California wine, but the minerality suggests France. This youthful wine requires another 6-8 months of bottle age, but it should keep for 7-8 years.Sadly, only about 250 cases of the gorgeous single-vineyard Chardonnays have been produced. They are fermented with whole clusters, indigenous yeasts, and aged in a high percentage of new French oak. Finally, they are bottled with no filtration. Moreover, my instincts suggest these wines will evolve for 3-4 years, and last for nearly a decade.Tel. (707) 433-2305; (707) 433-2358

All of the Chardonnays are hand-made wines that are whole cluster fermented with indigenous yeasts, put through full malolactic fermentation, aged in approximately 60% new oak, and bottled without filtration. They possess firm backbones (from good acidity), as well as strong personalities. The 1996 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard is an explosively rich, viscous, full-bodied, in-your-face Chardonnay with a Burgundian-like, leesy, smoked hazelnut-scented character. A flamboyant, mouthfilling, buttery apple, thick, juicy Chardonnay, it needs to be matched with equally intense food. It will drink well for 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358

The outstanding 1995 Chardonnay Allen Vineyard is extremely limited in availability as it can only be purchased at the winery. It possesses a lusty, exotic, full-bodied, buttery tropical fruit, honeyed character, as well as gobs of glycerin, alcohol, and extract. Powerful, forward, and flamboyant, I would opt for drinking this wine over the next several years.Tom Rochioli, one of my 1995 winemakers of the year, continues to turn out a brilliant portfolio of wines from the family's well-placed vineyards in the Russian River Valley. This is a top source not only for such workman-like grapes as Sauvignon Blanc, but also for brilliant Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358