The limited 250-case cuvee of well-made, medium-bodied 1999 Viognier Grand Reserve reveals plenty of peach, apricot, and floral characteristics. Drink it over the next year. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (707) 579-3419

The 1994 Grand Reserve Viognier (only 400 cases produced) reveals an excellent apricot and honeysuckle-scented nose, youthful, ripe, honeyed grapefruit-like flavors, and a soft, medium to full bodied texture. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. The Grand Reserves are both expensive and inconsistent. The finest Grand Reserves to date have been Kendall-Jackson's Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and plump, often outstanding Chardonnay. To this trio, they have added an impressive Grand Reserve Viognier. But readers should exercise caution with respect to their Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc.Kendall-Jackson, which has created justifiable excitement with their portfolio of single winery estate-bottled, high quality wines known collectively as the Artisans and Estates group, continues to offer a major line-up of varietal wines, as well as a proprietary red, all under the K-J label. I am of three minds about these wines. First, the Vintner's Reserve series has consistently offered consumers reasonably good value for the price. As with most California wines, prices have crept higher, but bargains still exist. The more expensive Grand Reserve series is next in the K-J hierarchy. This is more of a hit or miss category. The selections are generally well-made, but some of these decidedly one-dimensional wines fetch a lofty $40 a bottle. My favorite wine in this series tends to be the Chardonnay. The most disappointing offerings are Kendall-Jackson's flirtation with such esoteric varietals as Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. At the top level are the proprietary wines, the white Royale and red Cardinale. Since the early nineties, the Cardinale has been excellent, often outstanding. The first vintages of Royale look to be equally fine efforts.Tel. (707) 263-9333; Fax (707) 263-6817