The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge is deep, plush and inviting. The Trace Ridge is denser and richer than the Hawkeye Mountain, but doesn’t quite have the aromatic complexity of that wine. Layers of black fruit, iron, spices and licorice flow through to the round, generous finish. The 2009 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Kellogg Vineyard in Knights Valley. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I must say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Kendall-Jackson. Qualitatively the wine are head and shoulders above the vast majority of what is available in the same price points, but what amazes me most is Kendall-Jackson’s ability to achieve such a high average level of quality with production levels that are truly eye-popping. In 2010, which was not an abundant year, Kendall-Jackson produced nearly 2,000,000 cases of the flagship Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This is a brilliant showing from winemaker Randy Ullom and his team comprised of Matthew Smith (reds) and Mark Theis (whites).Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

More graphite, blueberry and floral notes are found in the 2007 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge. Coming from a high-elevation vineyard in Knight’s Valley, this wine is full-bodied, deep, rich, and should age nicely for 15 or more years. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

The serious Cabernets start with the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge, which demonstrates once more the high potential that Peter Michael’s Les Pavots first exhibited for Knight’s Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, especially when grown on hillsides. This classic Cabernet possesses plenty of black currant, licorice, cedar, and spice characteristics. It is best drunk over the next 10-12 years. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

A gorgeous Cab that shows the density and concentration, but also the elegant structure, of a fine mountain vineyard. Dry and richly tannic, this 100% Cabernet has pinpoint flavors of currants, plums and cedar. Brilliant now, and should evolve through at least 2012.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge, a Knight’s Valley cuvee that is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, offers nice chocolatey, black currant notes with some underbrush and forest floor. The wine has excellent texture, zesty acidity, and the vintage’s tell-tale tannin and almost Bordeaux-like structure superimposed on the exuberant fruit of northen California. It should drink nicely for a decade or more. Despite the size of some of the cuvees produced at Kendall-Jackson (2.3 million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and 300,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc), winemaker Randy Ullom is at the top of his game, and of course is given carte blanche authority by the two principals, Barbara Banke and her husband Jess Jackson. There are some terrific values in this portfolio.Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985