The 2008 PARANGA is a blend of Xinomavro, Syrah and Merlot. Fruity, bright, grapey and very primary, this still has a backbone that gives support to the exuberant young fruit. It seems almost like a barrel sample at this point, but should develop more character. It is modestly concentrated. If I have a quibble, it is once again the acidity level. It does seem tart at times. Drink 2011-2018. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948

The 2006 PARANGA is a blend of Xinomavro (60%), Merlot (20%) and Syrah (20%) grapes from contract growers. It has good structure for its price range, but simple fruit with modest concentration. The dominant impression, though, is its rather tart demeanor. The acidity drowns out the fruit flavors at times and the wine lacks much in the way of mid-palate concentration. There were moments when something better seemed about to happen, but the wine always seemed a little shrill. I liked it a little better with an hour of air, but it went nowhere thereafter. The acidity should preserve this for some time, but the question will be how much fruit is left down the road. I’d drink it on the earlier side for safety. Drink now-2013. Kir-Yianni was created in 1997, intended to be a premium winery for Boutari, one of Greece’s landmark wine companies. It was named for Boutari’s founder, helped develop its local appellation (Naoussa) and became identified with the Xinomavro grape, one of Greece’s popular native grapes.Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948