The 2005 KIR-YIANNI ESTATE is a blend of 40% Xinomavro and 60% Merlot from the winery’s Naoussa vineyards. Various lots spent 12-14 months in American and French oak barriques. It is one of the winery’s signature offerings, and with the DYO Elies, it holds the most potential of the winery’s offerings reviewed in this issue. A bit fleshier as well as a bit more astringent on opening than the Ramnista reviewed here, it shows some promise as it airs out, gripping on the finish, sunny but definitely brooding and a bit rustic. Although I liked its intensity, the wine is relatively light and tight. Some attractive fruit flavor pokes its head up at times, but the tannins seem likely to outlive the fruit. There was a slight harshness on the finish. It will be approachable with a couple hours in a decanter, but it probably will not start to show close to its best until 2010 or 2011. There were approximately 6,600 cases produced. Drink 2009-2017. Kir-Yianni was created in 1997, intended to be a premium winery for Boutari, one of Greece’s landmark wine companies. It was named for Boutari’s founder, helped develop its local appellation (Naoussa) and became identified with the Xinomavro grape, one of Greece’s popular native grapes.Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948