The average yields of three tons per acre at Hudson Vineyard were down to 1.75 tons per acre in 2020 due to very poor set in the spring, accounting for the concentrated character of the Chardonnays. This 2020 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard, however, is also notable for its acidity and energy. Winemaker Jason Kesner, who took over from Steve Kistler in 2018, says, "We used to pick Hudson later. Now that we are focusing on acidity and picking earlier, the grape skins don't break down in the press as readily. The skins stay more intact, reducing solids, and that has refined the expression of Hudson." It has a medium gold color and begins with oceanic character—saline and nori—before unfurling to white peaches, spring butter and jasmine. The medium-bodied palate is powerful yet tensile, with its tangy acidity, creamy texture and gentle phenolic touch working in tandem as it glides across the palate into a very long, ethereal finish. Usually, around 1,000 cases are made, but only 550 cases of the 2020 are available.

The 2019 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is incredibly distinctive this vintage, über marine-like with notes of iodine, nori and crushed stone floating over a core of white peaches and jasmine. The palate is exceptionally pure and intense, its satiny texture opposed by tangy acidity, and it finishes extraordinarily long and packed with flavor. It's a step up in quality in 2019, as if the volume of this wine's character has been turned up a notch. Give this generous, plush wine the time in cellar it deserves.

The 2018 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard begins with mineral notes of crushed shell and flint, slowly transforming into aromas of apricots, white peach and quince with accents of salted almonds, cut hay and white blossoms. The medium-bodied palate is still rather coiled at this youthful stage, hinting at savory layers yet to emerge, with fresh, uplifting acidity and a long, gently yeasty finish.

Moving to the Carneros releases, the 2018 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard comes from the Block E section of this larger vineyard, which is one of the original blocks planted in the 1980s. It offers a subtle marine-influenced minerality and iodine character as well as beautiful stone fruits, crushed citrus, flower oil, and honeycomb-like aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and concentrated, with racy acidity and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality, it's one of the finest Chardonnays in the vintage.

The 2017 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard offers dried white flowers, toast, gunflint and rocky notions to begin, opening out to baked apple, white peach, yogurt and lemon peel. Medium-bodied, rounded and toasty in the mouth with youthfully restrained fruit, it has seamlessly woven, bright acidity and finishes very long and minerally.