Aromas of cassis, orange rind, plums, incense and loamy soil preface the 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, muscular and concentrated wine that's deep and youthfully structured, standing out as one of the blockier, more introverted wines in a very suave portfolio from Drouhin. This is a fine proposition for the long haul.

Drouhin's 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, plums, dark chocolate, incense and petals. Full-bodied, rich and enveloping, it's broad and dramatic, with a concentrated core of fruit, succulent acids, and velvety tannins that render it unusually approachable at this early stage.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with notes of cherries, cassis and rich soil tones, framed by a generous touch of creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and chewy, with credible substance and depth, though it will never match the 2016 or 2015 renditions.

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru felt just a little disjointed compared to its peers at first and will hopefully gain more cohesion during the remainder of its élevage. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, raspberry preserve and cranberry tinged with white pepper, long in the mouth with a structured finish that bodes well for the future. Wait for the aromatics to get their act together, and you will have a very fine Clos de Vougeot that I suspect will rank alongside their 2015, if not surpass it.

The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is superb, offering up an utterly classic nose of plum, cassis, currant leaf, blood orange, incense and a beautifully integrated framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, supple and expansive, with a deep core of vibrant fruit and an ample chassis of beautifully fine-grained tannins which assert their Clos Vougeot muscularity by displaying a bit of grip on the long, lingering finish. While this is rendered with typical Drouhin elegance don't let that deceive you: this is a wine for the long haul, and its potential for sustained positive evolution in the cellar is considerable.