The 2016 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) felt very closed and taciturn on the nose when I tasted it, despite rigorous coaxing. The palate is well balanced with a lightly honeyed, spicy opening, more saline than the Corton-Charlemagne with a long aftertaste carried by a tang of ginger that leaves the mouth tingling. It will deserve 5 or 6 years in bottle, but it will be worth the wait.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru from Marquis de Laguiche (Drouhin) has a glorious, beautifully defined bouquet with real mineralité. This is extremely complex with limestone, oyster shell a hint of caramelised butter and yellow plum. The palate is very well balanced, quite powerful, superb tension and poise with a long, sustained and lightly spiced, lemony finish. This is just a beautiful, almost crystalline Montrachet with a long future ahead.

Vibrant layers of exotic fruit, smoke, spices, honey and licorice flesh out in the 2010 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche. Simply put, the 2010 is rich, dense and strikingly beautiful from the very first taste. There is a deep sensuality and allure about the 2010 that are simply compelling. This is another fabulous showing from Drouhin. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. This is a striking set of wines from Drouhin. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a year with cool temperatures in July and August, but much better weather in September. As is the case throughout the region, I found the Pulignys especially ripe and exotic. I also tasted a range of the 2011s. Drouhin told me she thought the wines would need a little extra time in barrel to give them more body and volume. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770