The ruby-colored 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet reveals appealing red and black fruit aromas. Light to medium-bodied and silky-textured, it reveals good depth of dark cherry and blackberry fruit. It has the firm, somewhat rustic finish often found in wines from this appellation. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770.

For value, Drouhin makes a good Chassagne-Montrachet, which is bursting with cherry fruit. Drouhin's oenologist told me the tannin and acidity levels of the wines were higher in 1988 than in 1985, but my tastings made me think otherwise. Perhaps as this wine recovers from bottle shock it will show more structure and acidity, and will be a more worthy candidate for long-term aging.

The 1985s from this famous firm are all impeccably clean, correct, well-made wines. Drouhin has managed to preserve the individual identity of each appellation as the wines do not taste alike. There is, of course, a house style, but that can be said of the wines from a small grower as well.