The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is promising, bursting with notes of pear, white flowers, citrus oil and toasted bread. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's satiny and concentrated, with fine depth at the core and chalky grip on the finish.

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with notes of ripe, smoky orchard fruit, mandarin and a generous framing of classy new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and layered, with good depth and structuring extract that frames its ripe, gourmand core of fruit, concluding with a saline finish. This is a promising but comparatively extrovert offering.

The 2016 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing nicely from bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp pear, lime zest, subtle citrus blossom and toasted nuts. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, unctuous and saline, with a textural attack but tangy balancing acids and a long, lingering finish. The frost impact lends this Montrachet a slightly atypical equilibrium, but it's a definite success for Latour.

The 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet like the Criots Batard Montrachet with a touch of spearmint infusing the citrus fruit. This has satisfying intensity. The palate is rounded on the entry that rather detracts from the tension and energy of this Montrachet. Like Louis Latour's other 2014 whites, it just lacks complexity and mineralité towards the finish, just a dab of ginger lingering on the aftertaste.

The 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru has a strict, wet granite and dewy green-apple nose that opens with aeration. The palate is fresh on the entry with a keen line of acidity. It is nicely balanced and focused, although it does not possess the complexity of its peers.