Medium-deep ruby in color, the 2006 Marie Zelie Pinot Noir reveals meaty, earthy, kirsch and dried cranberry aromas with whiffs of potpourri. With a great core of fruit, a crisp acid frame and medium levels of very fine tannins, this medium to full-bodied wine finishes long with an herb and mint lift on the end. Drink it now. Martinborough Vineyards’ 1,000-bottle reserve label, Marie Zelie, is New Zealand’s most expensive Pinot Noir and is only made in classical, good years. Imported by The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460

The 2006 Marie Zelie Pinot Noir is a special bottling of 984 bottles, raised for 16 months in barrel and 5 months in tank. It has a lovely, very well defined plum and wild strawberry scented bouquet with a touch of liquorice. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, very supple tannins, cranberry, Chinese 5-spice, raspberry coulis and a dash of white pepper on the silky finish with a tincture of orange-blossom on the lingering aftertaste. This is superb. Drink 2011-2018. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460

The incredibly rare (737 bottles) 2003 Marie Zelie Reserve Pinot Noir is a seductive wine with a beguiling, intense nose of black cherries, freshly tilled soil and forest floor, the palate medium-bodied with supple, filigree tannins and touches of black cherry and damson towards the soft finish. Drinking perfectly now, but this feminine wine should drink well for 7-10 years. Certainly it is a delectable Pinot Noir, although it does not have the profundity it aspires towards. This is another icon of New Zealand, whose wines helped put their Pinot Noir on the international map, their Reserve Pinot Noirs attaining high market prices (a vertical will be written up separately.)Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1463; fax (707) 603-1470