The 2021 Pinot Noir Ma Danseuse was made using destemmed grapes and matured in 40% to 50% new French oak. Tasted as a finished barrel sample a week before it was racked to tank and bottled, it is already harmonious and perfumed. Medium ruby-purple, it has a deep core of red cherries, cranberry sauce, blood orange and potpourri on the nose, opening to pure wafts of forest floor and lavender as it spends time in the glass. The medium-bodied palate explodes with concentrated, spicy red fruit and boasts loads of spicy, autumnal accents. Silky and mouthwatering, it has a long, latent finish that suggests it will develop gracefully in the cellar over the next 10-15 years. 1,100 cases were made and will be released in July of 2023.

Scents of roses, black tea and black cherries appear on the nose of the 2019 Pinot Noir Ma Danseuse. This bottling is on the slightly fuller-bodied side (14.4% alcohol) but by no means overweight, with a wonderfully plush, silky texture and tremendous length on the finish.

This label comes from Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2017 Pinot Noir Ma Danseuse needs a little coaxing to release the wonderful perfume of exotic scents—bergamot, sandalwood, cassia and cinnamon stick—over a cove of Morello cherries, lilacs, dark chocolate and black raspberries, plus a waft of spearmint. Medium-bodied, the palate is incredibly fresh, silken textured and light on its feet and yet with fantastic intensity, finishing long and mineral laced. 1,410 cases were made.

Medium to deep ruby-purple, the 2016 Pinot Noir Ma Danseuse is a little closed, offering glimpses of red currants, black raspberries, wild blackberries and mulberries plus wafts of garrigue, tilled soil, fallen leaves and rose hip tea. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, ripe, grainy tannins and muscular fruit, finishing very long and very earthy. 887 cases produced.

The production of the 2014 Pinot Noirs ranges from a low of 543 cases for the Clos du Ciel to a high of 1,227 cases for the Ma Danseuse. All of these Pinot Noirs are made from what is simply called a Vosne-Romanée clone, which is code, I expect, for a vineyard such as Romanée-Conti or La Tache, but no one’s talking. The 2014 Pinot Noir Ma Danseuse is from the coldest of the three Sonoma Coast sites that are now part of the Ft. Ross-Seaview AVA and is their largest production cuvée. Plenty of forest floor, raspberry, black cherry and floral notes are present in this wine, which has seemingly put on a lot of weight and texture since I had it last year. This comes from a 1,000- to 1,300-foot elevation and the resulting Pinot is Burgundian, classic, rich and capable of lasting 15 or more years, possibly longer.