The Prager 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Weitenberg leads with high-toned distilled pit fruit esters and snap pea aromas, segueing into a glossy, richly fruited palate, all of which seems to be typical for this clay-rich, water-retentive site. Melon liqueur laced with grapefruit zest and herbs make for a lush, yet at the same time invigorating impression. It’s hard to think about cellaring any wine this forward, but I suspect 4-5 years would do absolutely no harm. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Weitenberg – from relatively young vines in a clay-rich, water-retentive soil – is more fruit-dominated than most Gruner Veltliner in this vintage and was less affected by poor flowering. Notes of green bean and mirabelle rise from the glass. Luscious yellow plum and kiwi fruit tinged with green bean saturate the palate with subtle wet stone suggestions beneath. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Lovely aromas of ripe pears, spices, and white pepper can be found in the nose of the fresh 2000 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Weissenkirchen Weitenberg. This linear, concentrated, highly-focused wine sports quinine, gravel, smoke, pepper, and white fruit flavors. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700