The 2011 Chardonnay Estate possesses earthy, waxy and buttery citrus characteristics along with some background wood in its medium-bodied, crisp personality. The finish reveals significant acidity, and the wine is unexpressive at this stage of its development. It is difficult to know how long it will last, but I think 4-5 years minimum is probable. Tel. (408) 867-3233

The 2010 Chardonnay Estate is a beautiful, precise wine laced with citrus zest, crushed rocks and a hint of spice from the American oak. In 2010, the Chardonnay stands out for its energy and tension. It needs another year or two to settle down, but it is already striking in its beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Indiana Jones and I have one thing in common – a fear of snakes. That is why every time I see the sign in the Ridge parking lot that reads “Beware of rattlesnakes,” I get a little uneasy. So it’s quickly into the tasting room for me. Winemaker Eric Baugher and his team have prepared a great tasting covering all of the Ridge classics, plus a few smaller-production bottlings I am tasting for the first time. This is a sublime set of new releases from one of this country’s greatest heritage wineries. It’s hard to know where to start, but the highlights are the 2009 Monte Bello, followed by the 2010, which will be released this year, plus some of the Zinfandels and Zinfandel-based wines. The 2010 harvest was not an easy one. The summer was very cold, as it was throughout California. Ridge was severely affected by August heat spikes that were crippling for Zinfandel. The wines that were bottled are the result of a severe selection of the best fruit that survived the heat. Tel. (408) 867-3233

The 2009 Chardonnay Estate is an impeccable, classy wine layered with bright citrus, flowers and just a touch of sweetness from the oak. Crushed rocks and lime peel add complexity on the textured, long finish. In 2009 none of the blocks were designated for the Monte Bello bottling, all of the fruit went into the Estate. This is a stunningly pure wine from Ridge. I came back to the 2009 Estate after having tasted all of the reds and the wine showed beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. I tasted a breathtaking array of wines during my recent visit with Paul Draper at Ridge. Draper is a true American icon, so it’s great to see him doing well after a bout with illness. I also tasted a number of older wines, including several Monte Bellos going back to the 1970s. Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary. For ease of reference I have also included notes on all of the Ridge wines made outside the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Chardonnays are fermented with native yeasts and go into barrel with their gross lees, which are stirred once a week. The malos usually start the following spring. The wines are assembled just before the following harvest and go back into neutral oak. Aging is about 15 months for the Estate and 17 months for the Chardonnay Monte Bello, with a maximum of 25% new barrels. The reds are fermented with ambient yeasts, undergo malolactic fermentation in tank (except for the Monte Bello which is mostly done in barrel) and stay on their gross lees until the following spring. Tel. (408) 867-3233; Fax (408) 868-1350. www.ridgewine.com

The 2008 Chardonnay from Ridge exhibits subtle oak as well as plenty of fresh white currants, pear, and nectarine in a restrained, yet full-bodied, authoritative style. Bottled unfiltered, the wine has good acidity, a hint of minerality, and a crisp finish. It is a big wine, but very well-balanced, and the overall impression is one of restraint and equilibrium. Drink it over the next 2-5 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

The 2001 Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains is fresher, livelier, and more vigorous than the 2000, but similar in style. I would opt for drinking it over the near term. Tel. (408) 867-3233; Fax (408) 868-1350