Marjoram and toasted hickory in the nose of the Diel 2010 Pinot Gris have their pungent, piquant counterparts on a palate corpulent but firmed if not outright stiffened by the influence of wood. A strongly but not especially savory or saliva-inducing saltiness vies with smoke and spice, no doubt borne of both grape and toasted oak, in this Pinot’s modest finish. I suspect it will require some care to find interesting applications for this, and I would – albeit merely intuitively – anticipate only modest aging potential. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Vinified and aged in two large Stuckfasser plus a couple of barriques, the Diel 2009 Pinot Gris originated, notes Caroline Diel, in tiny, sugar-rich berries, and unfortunately the resulting 14.6% alcohol carries a bit of warmth into the finish of a wine otherwise impressively rich and creamy, tasting of oatmeal, toasted nuts, peach, and a hint of sage. I would plan on utilizing this one over the next couple of years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300