A 2010 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Auslese reflects the highest quota of botrytized fruit (roughly half) among Schlossgut Diel’s Auslesen of this vintage, and that is evidenced in this wine’s creamy texture, musky pungency, and overtones of caramel and honey. Musk melon, sweet lime and purple plum muster a juicy matrix for all of this wine’s richness, while an alkaline note and lick of salt serve-up a mineral dimension. A faintly lactic hint somewhat deprives the finish of focus or refreshment, though this might be epiphenomenal and evanescent. Caroline Diel testifies that when her Auslesen were first bottled this Burgberg showed the greatest harmony but acknowledges that roles have changed in the meantime. I would want to revisit this without question imposingly rich elixir in another year or two if not sooner. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Schlossgut Diel’s 2009 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Auslese features almost overripe brown-spiced pear, quince preserves, and perfume of faded lily and musky peony, all of which take on creamy, palate-caressing, yet persistently refreshing form. Salted caramel and subtle chalkiness add interest to the long, soothing finish. This was rendered from about half each botrytized and healthy golden berries, notes Caroline Diel. I would expect it to be worth following for a quarter century. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Shows a complex mix of candied grapefruit, baked apple and preserved quince flavors, with a touch of mineral. The sweetness dominates now, but there's a lively structure that kicks in on the finish. Needs time. Best from 2009 through 2022. 31 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add

Terrific. A rich wine with muted flavors of spice, vanilla, passion fruit and pastry shot through with searing acidity. Intense, with concentrated flavors and a delicate frame. Best from 2006 through 2020.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add

Gorgeous auslese, elegant, pure and racy while dense with peach and mineral flavors. Well-delineated and marked by a strong, upright framework, this should be a beauty in time. Best from 2001 through 2010. 150 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add