Schlossgut Diel 釀制的 2010 年的 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs 散發(fā)著愛麗絲花與白桃的味道，苦中帶甜，口感自然，酸度怡人（檸檬酸與桃子酸）。此酒回味持久，散發(fā)著濃烈的果核辛辣味與石頭味，單寧緊實(shí)，口感簡(jiǎn)樸。此款 Riesling 相對(duì)地仍處于嬰兒期，在六七年之后才會(huì)變得濃郁而體現(xiàn)出其價(jià)值。此款 2010 年的酒在釀造過(guò)程中進(jìn)行了選擇性地復(fù)鹽脫酸，其葡萄可以浸皮，可以釀制出甘甜的葡萄酒。今年的這款 Grosse Gewachse 酒精含量適中，為 12.5-13%。

Layering of pear distillate and fresh winter pear in the nose and on the silken-textured palate of Schlossgut Diel’s 2009 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, are accompanied by the smokiness of black tea, pineapple, and suggestions of elderberry. A veritably stone-licking underlying intensity that evokes this site’s slate doesn’t diminish from its fresh and persistent sense of tartly-skinned primary juiciness, but rather makes for a vibrant sense of interactive force-multiplication. This ringing Riesling should be well worth following for the next 6-8 years if not longer. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Cyanic bitterness of peach kernel and pear pip are prominent even in the nose of the Diels’ 2008 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, which then comes to the palate bright and compact, with a combination of chalky minerality and fruit pit bitterness that borders on austere, but is redeemed by low-toned nut oil richness and by a finish not only intensely mineral and a bit bitter, yet also explosively juicy and loaded with primary peachy fruit. The chalky and nutty elements put me in mind of Burgberg rather than of the slate-paved Pittermannchen; and the way the wine really only plays its strongest suit in the finish reminds me of Austrian Riesling behavior. Given its concentration, energy, and the fact that it manages to balance despite very low residual sugar, this will be worth following for ten or a dozen years. Caroline Diel is taking the reins at her family’s estate, and results in 2008 are as impressive as one would have expected given the track record at this address. The team here did not start harvesting until the third week in October and picked for nearly a month, due to which lateness the measurable acid levels (which were not adjusted) were relatively low by vintage standards, but the impression of acidity was more than vivacious and efficacious enough. On a quest for purity and authenticity, the Diels did not include in their bench trials for the blending of Grosse Gewachse any small lots of off-dry wine such as might in past have been employed expressly to fine-tune the finished levels of residual sugar. Instead, they let the blends all remain quite dry. Armin Diel has for at least the past dozen years championed and cherished the Mosel stylistic ideals of delicacy and of high residual sugar balanced against acidity. His choices of Mosel-born cellar master Martin Franzen (now of Muller-Catoir), and more recently of Moselaner Christoph Friedrich, testify to this proclivity. But there has never been a better vintage in which to give these ideals fluid realization. So if you are a lover of Kabinetts and Spatlesen from the likes of Joh. Jos. Prum, Willi Schaefer, or the Haags, do not miss the show Caroline and Armin Diel have put on this year, and that could be playing in your cellar any night over the next two decades!Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300