The blend is 75% Pinot Noir with the balance Chardonnay, and the grapes come from fourcounties, led by Mendocino. The wine is rich and full-bodied in strawberry, raspberry, citrus, roasted almond, toasted coconut, brioche and vanilla flavors that are a little sweet. The bubbles are somewhat harsher than you might expect, but this brut could be going through a phase. Hold until 2014 and try again. ——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 92

A bit angular and awkward now, with a jagged, sandpapery feeling in the mouth. But the flavors are deep and refined, suggesting baked apples, grilled pears, yeasty, smoked brioche, vanilla bean and spices. Three-quarters Pinot Noir, with the remainder Chardonnay. Really needs 3–5 years to come around, at least.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92