Fermented with 15% whole clusters (the vintage had tiny berries and Adam said that even this small percentage yielded almost more stems than berries), the 2013 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard offers soaring notes of stems, spice, underbrush, flowers and juicy berry fruit in a forward, sexy and fruit-filled style. Called a "love it or hate it" style by Adam, it seemed classic Pinot Noir with stem influence to me. I'd happily drink it anytime over the coming 4-6 years.

One of my favorites in the entire Siduri lineup, the 2012 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard is a serious wine that gives up gorgeous blackberry, blueberry, white pepper, rose petal and dried earth aromas and flavors. It has fabulous purity, building tannin and an overall classy feel. It will continue to drink beautifully through at least 2020.

The 2010 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi shows the trademark qualities of this cold site. Dark red cherries, game, smoke and cured meats are some of the nuances that run through the wine. As always, there is a wild, animalistic quality here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Adam Lee describes 2011 as the coldest vintage he has ever seen. Nevertheless, the 2011 Pinots are very, very pretty, and also in line with previous years in terms of their overall quality. Severe selection was the only way to do that, and it is quite clear that is exactly what Lee did. A higher percentage of barrels ended up in the appellation wines, a testament to the exacting standards at Siduri. I tasted all of the 2011s as final blends, from barrel. Lee planned to bottle the 2011s in August, 2012, with the exception of the Soberanes, Rosella’s and Garys’, all of which are a scheduled to go into bottle in January, 2013. The 2010 Pinots spent 10 months in barrel and were bottled in August, 2011. Lee told me his parcels experienced heat spikes in both August and September, but judging by the wines, he made the right calls before and after. Timing, as they say, is everything. Tel. (707) 578-3882; www.siduri.com