The 1994 Zinfandel Pacini Vineyard offers a more brooding perspective on this popular varietal. The dark, thick ruby color reveals some purple hues. The wine is more closed (it is less flattering and charming than the Shooting Star Zin), but it cuts a wide swath on the palate with gobs of fruit, glycerin, alcohol, and richness. Give it 2-4 more months of cellaring and consume it over the following 5-6 years. NOTE: All the wines in this article were tasted in May, 1996.Tel. (707) 279-0213

Jed Steele is a super-talented winemaker. He appears to have the touch regardless of whether the wine is Zinfandel, Chardonnay, or Syrah. The 1992 Catfish Vineyard and Pacini Vineyard Mendocino are classic examples of Zinfandel's wonderful fruit. Eschewing the blockbuster, thick, tannic, heavyweight style, Steele has chosen to emphasize the wonderfully zesty, vibrant, juicy Zinfandel fruit. Both wines are medium to full-bodied, with admirable purity, lovely, supple textures, and plenty of vibrancy and character. The 1992 Zinfandel Pacini Vineyard is more structured and concentrated, but its emphasis too is on up-front, deliciously fresh berry fruit presented in a medium to full-bodied, supple format. These delicious Zinfandels should please both the neophyte and connoisseur. Tel. (707) 279-0213