The Tenuta San Leonardo 2019 Trentino Riesling is shiny and bright with citrus, white flower, tropical fruit and hints of tarry smoke or asphalt. This is a classic portrait of young Riesling made in a fascinating corner of Italy where a Mediterranean climate meets the Continental climate of the Dolomites. The area has important day-versus-nighttime diurnal shifts, and those are what give this wine its lively, perky energy. There is a hint of sweet grapefruit over a lean, tight mouthfeel. Exactly 6,655 bottles were made.

With 6,602 bottles made, the 2018 Trentino Riesling has already transitioned to a more elongated style, with volume, honey and beeswax beyond the preserved lemon, tropical fruit and dried papaya. It's beautiful to see how much the wine has pivoted from its primary intensity while maintaining its elegance all the while. This vintage offers special complexity.

Tenuta San Leonardo was kind enough to send me a little vertical, with the 2017 Trentino Riesling representing the oldest of three vintages tasted. From a warm growing season, this wine is waxy and thicker on the mid-palate with mature apricot, honey, dried apple and lemon confit. Those characteristic petroleum-like aromas are played down in this vintage, and this mid-weight wine focuses on dried fruit aromas instead. I tasted bottle number 5,256 of 6,654 bottles produced.

The Tenuta San Leonardo 2016 Trentino Riesling shows loads of varietal purity with quince, pear, Golden Delicious apple, honey and dried papaya. All that fruit is put under a lens, provided by sharp mineral tones, for extra focus and clarity. This is a generous, lean to mid-weight Riesling with touches of Mediterranean warmth and golden, citrusy fruit that is characteristic of the mountainous Trentino region. I tasted bottle number 536 of just 6,250 produced. I would love to come back to this bottle in five years' time.

I had already reviewed this wine in 2018, but I found it to be so beautifully evolved and changed that I wanted to publish an updated note. On this second try, I tasted bottle 5,862 of 6,070 produced. The Tenuta San Leonardo 2015 Trentino Riesling opens to rising aromatic intensity that comes in the form of ripe peach, honey, Anjou pear and some distant tropical tones. This sunny vintage certainly comes through in terms of the wine's silky and smooth finish. There's good reason to hold this bottle for a few more years.