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Since getting Cabernet Sauvignon entirely ripe here is an iffy proposition often requiring crossed fingers well into November, Fry has adopted a style of Cabernet that emphasizes fruit and minimizes tannin. He then blends with Merlot, a variety much more likely in Long Island to exhibit abundant and ripe tannins. In effect then, the roles familiar from Bordeaux or Napa are reversed, with Merlot playing Cabernet to the Cab’s Merlot. The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, incorporating around 15% Merlot, offers aromas of cassis, black cherry, and hints of tobacco. The wine’s medium- to full-bodied palate is dominated by juicy crushed black fruits that carry into a finish of verve and intensity. Fry calls this “chunky” Cabernet by estate standards, but I find it suave and satisfying right now, even if a few years may add complexity. Tel. (631) 364-8403

Shows plenty of bright red-fruit flavors of cherry and red currants. Yes, there's a hint of green pepper, but not so much as to be objectionable. It's more than made up for by the lush mouthfeel and ease with which this wine goes down. ——J.C.(4/1/2001)—— 88