The 2006 Xinomavro (which is listed on the front as just Naoussa, per appellation protocol) is Vaeni's entry level Xinomavro. It is the latest iteration of what is usually a pretty good, typical and inexpensive introduction to the Xinomavro grape. If it is a bit light, it is also pure and honest, a bright and earthy country wine with a little rusticity that you have to warm up to - but that is not hard to do. It opened a touch gamey, but that largely blew off. Granting that it sometimes seems a bit light in the mid-palate, I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of folks, particularly Piemonte lovers, were quite happy with this and felt little need to trade up in the producer's lineup. It is certainly a best buy in this lineup. You do have to accept the gamey notes, but this is a nice vintage for this bottling. I would note, though, that given the power this sometimes shows, it may surprise a lot of people who don't expect to see this much intensity in $15 wines. Drink 2012-2023. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that buys a large part of the Naoussa region's production. Its specialty has traditionally been Xinomavro, of course, the appellation's signature grape. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, NY; tel. (718) 352-1180

Pleasing from the start, this wine starts with bright notes of cherry and dried fruit, followed by a medium-bodied, firm blend of pepper, strawberry and black cherry. Restrained and fresh, it can age or be drunk now. ——S.K.(9/1/2011)—— 87

The 2005 XINOMAVRO is light, bright and relatively low in alcohol (12.5%). It is one of the best intersections of value and price in the Vaeni lineup. It lacks much mid-palate concentration, but has a certain youthful lushness on first attack. That disappears with air, as the acidity takes over and it becomes more angular and leaner and somewhat austere and steely. The tannins have some grip on the finish. It is a wine that can age for a few years, but drinks nicely now. This might be a wine to reach for when you’d normally be thinking of a basic Barbaresco. Drink now-2013. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180

The 2004 XINOMAVRO is Vaeni’s entry level Naoussa, a pretty good, typical and inexpensive introduction to the Xinomavro grape. I have, perhaps, a slight preference for the 2005 recently reviewed, but this is similar, bright (a bit tart even) and a bit earthy. There is a lot of power on the finish here for an inexpensive wine. Some will no doubt find it rustic, but there is good fruit here, too, although the mid-palate is not terribly concentrated. I suspect this would be a great match, though, for pizza or pasta and red sauce, and the price should be right. This has its place—just use it properly. Drink now-2014. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that takes a large part of the Naoussa region’s production. Its focus has traditionally been on Xinomavro, making both white wines (from red grapes) and reds.Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180