The 2009 Chablis Vaudesir has a very pure bouquet with attractive limestone and smoke scents percolating through the veneer of green lemon and grapefruit. The palate is well-balanced with a crisp line of acidity, good depth with a focused, resinous, peach-skin finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. This is a fine Grand Cru Vaudésir to drink over the next 5 or 6 years.

Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The Chablis Vaudesir (harvested at a whopping 14.4% natural potential alcohol) reveals super-ripe grape aromas and an oily, rich, and full-bodied core of anise, smoke, and candied lemons. Bright and vibrant while almost syrupy-thick, this extraordinary wine should develop magnificently with cellaring. Drink it between 2002 and 2009+. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.