Revealing aromas of grapefruit oil, peach and blanched almonds, the 2019 Chablis Cuvée de la Butte is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and precise, with bright acids and a saline finish. It's a mouthwateringly mineral rendition of this dependable bottling.

The 2018 Chablis Cuvée de la Butte is a success, revealing pretty aromas of citrus oil, grapefruit, white flowers and oyster jus. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample but stony, with racy acids and a saline finish.

The 2017 Chablis Cuvée de la Butte is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of oystershell, lemon oil, crisp peach and the Sauvignon-like botanicals that are often the signature of this bottling. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tensile and stony, with superb cut and lovely concentration, concluding with a saline, chalky finish. It's a wine to purchase by the case.

The 2016 Chablis Cuvée de la Butte offers up pretty notes of gently musky peach, ripe citrus oil, white flowers and beeswax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and saline, with succulent acids and an elegantly textural attack. There have been better renditions of the Cuvée de la Butte (which hails from the Montmains slope not far from the lieu-dit Butteaux), but this is a very creditable effort in this vintage.

The 2015 Chablis Cuvee de la Butte appears to have improved significantly in recent months. Here, it has a crisp granite and smoke-scented bouquet that gradually unfurls in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity. It conveys satisfying salinity in the mouth, commendably tensile and, thankfully, since I last tasted this wine, it has developed more substance and personality toward the finish. Therefore it warrants a higher score than 12 months ago.