Exhibiting notions of spices, tobacco, blackberries, licorice and herbs, the 2018 Chateau Montus is medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by fine tannins that gently assert themselves on the finish. More intense and tense than the 2018 Bouscassé, it needs a couple of years in the bottle to chill out, but you can already see the potential. This is a blend of 80% Tannat, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc sourced from vines planted on pebbles and clay soils, matured 36 months in barrels, of which 40% are new.

In the mid-seventies, I paid a visit to the rustic appellation of Madiran, several hours south of Bordeaux. I met proprietor Alain Brumont, but had no way of knowing at the time that he would emerge as the appellation's most energetic and quality-driven producer. Readers who are unable to latch onto a few bottles of the 1995 Cuvee Prestige, should check out the regular cuvee of 1995 Chateau Montus (92-94), which is available as a future purchase for only $18 a bottle. The regular cuvee will require at least 12-15 years of cellaring. These are unreal wines that are purely made, remarkably rich, and so complete and promising that they cannot be ignored. Importer: a Jeffrey Davies Signature Selection, West Nyack, NY; tel. (845) 353-8767