The 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard shows off gorgeous depth, intensity and balance. Dark cherries, spices, licorice and sweet herbs are some of the many notes that are woven together in this vivid, elegant wine. The Estate impresses for its terrific overall balance and sheer energy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

From the winery’s own Westside Road vineyard, formerly called Litton, comes this grandiose, if immature, Pinot Noir. In its youth it’s all about primary, jammy raspberry and cherry fruit. On the edges are fine acidity, smooth tannins and a perfect applique of oak. Shows the hallmarks of this great, emerging vineyard, but needs serious time to come around. Try after 2015. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 95