The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb Vineyard is performing significantly better out of bottle than it did from cask. This 200-case cuvee spent 26 months in oak. Its opaque purple color is followed by a gorgeous perfume of graphite, creme de cassis, and licorice, and full-bodied, layered, concentrated flavors with superb balance and density. Surprisingly sweet tannin as well as an explosive finish have developed over the last year. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020+. Colgin, which is already a so-called "cult" wine, seems to have pushed the envelope of quality even higher ... as hard as that is to believe. As always, the truth is in the bottle ... in vino veritas.(Release date 11/02)Tel. (707) 524-4445; Fax (310) 889-0085

Intense, dry, herbal and earthy, with dried currant, sage and dusty berry flavors that are austere and tannic. Though still vibrant, the flavors are muted. Tasted from magnum.—1999 California Cabernet blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. 200 cases made. -JL