The masculine and brooding 2001 Barbaresco Starderi is unquestionably the most complex and complete of the La Spinetta Barbarescos. The wine is dark and deeply expressive, with a huge palate of dark roasted fruit, tar, spices, licorice and a lingering note of menthol. Despite its size and notable concentration the Starderi appears to be a bit more accessible than the Valeirano at the moment. This is modern-style Barbaresco at its best. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; and Bianco~Rosso Imports, Ltd., Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 781-0702

Extremely fresh on the nose, with fruit and raw meat character. Almost leafy underneath. Full-bodied, with big, chewy tannins, but they're round and caressing. This is a big red with a lot of heart. Best after 2007. 600 cases made. -JS