The 2006 Barbaresco Starderi is easily the best of these three offerings, as the wine’s balance is exceptional. Aromatics, fruit and structure are all woven together in an impressive display of power and elegance. The fruit retains the house’s characteristic super-ripe style, but that element is more finely tuned here than in the estate’s other Barbarescos. Simply put, the 2006 is another terrific Starderi from proprietor Giorgio Rivetti and his team. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021, Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY (516) 677-9300

Wonderfully floral, with cream and berry aromas. Full-bodied, with round, chewy tannins and lots of fruit. Generous and rich for the vintage. Best after 2012. 1,200 cases made. -JS