The profound nose of the 1997 Montrachet displays peaches, apricots, minerals, and buttered toast. This grand vin is full-bodied, admirably dense, intensely expressive, and conquers the palate with massive, oily waves of dried honey, hazelnut paste, chestnut cream, toasty minerals, grilled oak, and super-ripe white fruits. It is liquid decadence, a hedonistic fruit bomb, and as awesome a near-term drinking Montrachet as I can imagine. Bravo! Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524, Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 33-3-80-22-58-25.