Although it is not entirely laced together, this substantial wine makes a good impression with its ripe purple fruits and strong vanilla and coffee and coconut barrel notes. Big flavors and firm tannins create an impression of strength and weight; what the wine lacks in finesse it makes up for in muscle. It’s chunky and rough-hewn, but carries plenty of flavor. Screwcap.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 88