The 2004 Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee Saint Catherine gives off fusil, honeyed, smoky, and wet stone aromas that are fascinating but remind me of a more mature Riesling. The spice and bitterness of botrytis follow this wine’s creamy, honeyed, rich, citrus- and peach-dominated fruit for all of its considerable length. Musky, spicy, fusil elements abound here, adding fascinating complexity, but there is some blurring and bitterness from botrytis that will never depart, and I would plan – subject of course to interim inspection – to drink this over the next 3-5 years.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802