The 2008 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Historical Vineyards Collection emerges from a plot planted in 1972. It shows plenty of intensity but comes across as a touch heavy, with less of the drive and focus of the finest whites in this lineup. The wine was fermented and aged for 12 months on its lees in 29% new barrels. This is an attractive, sexy style best suited to near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Jim Clendenen is one of the pioneers of the Central Coast. At their best, his wines capture striking expressions of some of the region’s top sites deeply influenced by a huge passion and admiration for the great wines of Burgundy.Tel. (805) 937-9801; www.aubonclimat.com

Shows very bright acidity and a firm minerality, which gives it a tangy, mouthwatering vitality. Rich, too, in lemondrop candy, pineapple jam and spice flavors. The oak has been tastefully applied, with just- right notes of buttered toast. A flattering, balanced, elegant Chardonnay for drinking soon. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 93